We Made It!

After topping Half Dome there was still quite a trek before the safety and comfort that the valley provided. We passed hikers on the way down who were on their way to the summit, even nearing 2pm or so - no way! They'd be hiking down in the dark if they made it all the way there. I even saw some in sandals who asked us "How far is it!?" - yup. "Uh...a ways."

We made it back down to the valley at a good clip on the John Muir Trail - passing Little Yosemite Valley and Nevada Falls. We got some beautiful pictures of Nevada Falls with Liberty Cap in the background. Forever and a mile later, we made it to the Happy Isles trailhead where we'd started four days earlier. We took a minute for a hug, and a guy sort of interrupted us just to ask how far to the lookout point. He said sorry at least, and then asked how long we'd been out there. We told them and then he yelled for his kids to come see. So we're a show now!? We must have been either very dirty, or smelly, or maybe just exhausted. Oh well.

While taking a minute with our packs off, Drew wandered off to get some water at a "real live water fountain". No need to purify first! And he came back with a hot dog and popsicle from the Happy Isles trailhead snack shop. Back to civilization, right!? Starving, we took them both down in a matter of seconds. We hiked the last little ways to the car (covered in dust - but without any bear evidence) and sank into the seats. Now just two hours to the lodge...

Don't look down!

I have some cool video, too! I'll post later on today... And here it is - sorry about the whole turning the screen thing!

Half Dome

A proud moment...

After suffering the sub-dome we came to the "shoulder" as it's called. It's a really narrow spot right before the cables begin - I'd say about 30 feet across. We had a moment of clarity (or maybe sanity) and decided to leave our packs on the shoulder. There was just no way I could climb the cables with a pack pulling me backwards. It was that steep.

We donned gloves and chatted with an older couple (in their 80's) about to head up. The woman motioned for us to go ahead of them since she was going to "take awhile". I had no problem with "taking awhile" since I figured I would, too. But I went up first, with Drew behind. I was heading up, and then all the sudden I was really really heading UP. I would have had absolutely no footing without those cables! But how cool it felt... I'm really doing it! Drew kept encouraging from behind as I took one and two step lunges up the cable, bringing my hands with me. I'm pretty sure he never gets winded, and this was the same. He says he was meant to do this, and I agree. I married a mountain goat (a cute one).

I had a moment or two of doubt when Drew kept asking "How are you doing!?" Is it that obvious that my arms and legs are on fire!? Am I the slowest person alive!? No, not really. The older couple were way behind us (But, hello!? They were climbing Half Dome - in their 80's! Kudos to them...), and I was holding no one up. I don't even think I looked around at the view, which I should have. I was so intent on getting to the top. And we did, finally. :) My legs were jello, but they could rest now... Later we found out that that older couple were very experienced - climbing Whitney, most of the 14er's, and several others without ever slowing down.

We wandered around the top for awhile, ate some trail mix (which we were pretty sick of by now, by the way), finished off our water (oops!) and just sat. We looked around, marveled at the fact that you could pretty much walk right off if you were so inclined, and decided to scoot back a few feet. We checked out the "diving board" and did the camera swap with a few people to get some cool pictures. And before you know it, it was time to head down to make sure we got back to the valley floor in time to head out. And so we headed down, me the obnoxious cheerleader all the way. "You're almost there - you're doing awesome!" Bite me, right?

So close, and yet so far...

The next morning we woke up early (5am!) in order to get on the trail by 6am towards Half Dome. Knowing that the trail and the cables in particular start to get crowded early and that we would still have a long hike back to the valley to follow, we thought it best. And the fact that we didn't want to be climbing or sitting on baking hot granite at high noon also entered our minds. It ended up being perfect timing, actually!

We head out on an easy two mile hike around Morraine Dome towards Half Dome. We really did manage to set ourselves up for a great day by finding that spot the night before. We saw some people as we neared Half Dome who were camped out at the base. Cheaters! I don't think you can do that anymore...oh well.

When we made it to the base of Half Dome and the "2 Mile" sign, we met up with people coming up from Little Yosemite Valley. Their day was already tough as they'd been going uphill either from Yosemite Valley at the floor or Little Yosemite Valley. I can't imagine the day hike some people were doing from the floor of the valley - that's over 16 miles, and none of it easy!

We posed for pictures with the sign (2 Miles - really?) checked our gumption (got it, we think) and started out. I was actually nervous! Like, really nervous! What if I can't do it? What if I don't make it!? I can't not make it! What about our packs!? Are we crazy to do this with our packs on!? But I couldn't think that way, not for these last two miles! We were so close - and yet sooo far.

We one-two stepped up the first mile taking a few breaks to the sub-dome and then went back and forth about what to do with our packs. Hide them before climbing the subdome? Take them with? We took them with (after I made Drew go look for a suitable hiding spot, of course) because we knew you weren't supposed to ditch your pack anywhere. Rule-followers, I know. Heart thumping, we started up the sub-dome, which really is infinitely harder than the cables. From where we started that morning, this was the part that looked unclimbable. Those coming down the subdome (they'd already summitted or hadn't been successful) were cheery and enthusiastic. "You can do it! It's the hardest part but you're almost there!" Bite me, is what I wanted to say. Later on, I would be that same person, though.

So, who wants to go see if that was a bear?

After a nap at the tent we ventured out to what we think was Moraine Dome. It was absolutely beautiful - and quiet. It was like we had the sunset all to ourselves, and an astonishing view of Half Dome and the next day's hike. A honeymoon moment for sure...one of our favorite spots and memories.

We took some risks to get to that beautiful spot - and then kicked ourselves when we almost got lost heading back. We had a map and headlamps, but there's nothing like the feeling of losing your way when you thought you knew exactly where you were (Moraine Dome was off trail a little ways). And then we saw what we thought was proof of bear. Oh, wonderful. Anxious about being lost and then seeing bear leftovers - that'll get your heart going a little. So Drew did what any good navigator would - dragged me with him back up the incline so he could get above the treeline and find his way. Which he did - and then we made sure to make lots and lots of noise all the way back to camp in case the resident bears had any thoughts...

It was at this point that our conversation turned to food. I've heard that at about 3 or 4 days in to a hike like ours, all thoughts turn to food. Real food - not trail food. We conjured up favorite breakfasts, best "as soon as we get back to the real world" meals, snacks. And funny enough, it wasn't steak or anything fancy. It was hot dogs, and popsicles, and pizza. We ended up deciding on the perfect post-hike breakfast for our stay at The Pines Lodge and Resort, still a day away at that point. Orange juice, coffee, bacon, eggs, french toast, and a side of biscuits and gravy for Drew. Ugg, but wonderful all the same.

We made a fire, ate dinner and then stashed our bear canister and packs a ways away from the tent. Our first night really on our own - no fellow backpackers in the campsite next door and no bear boxes for safe storage - and EVERYTHING sounded like a bear. We went to bed early in order to get enough sleep and get up early for the hike to Half Dome. That's not to say that we actually fell asleep anytime soon after that. I heard bears, I had dreams of bears, and I was convinced that I would wake up to a torn up pack and a slashed tent. Drew didn't fair much better and we passed the night in fits.

The Big, Bad, Scary...Grouse

So you're going to laugh when you watch this video. It's of nothing, really. Nothing you can hear or see - though at the time Drew and I were trying not to spook ourselves and think logically about what "that noise" could be. We had taken a break and all the sudden heard this trilling. Nothing spooky, really, but we just couldn't figure it out. Drew's logic? "Take some video - your Dad can figure it out for sure." Okay, so here goes? Do you hear anything?

Oh, and check out Drew's near crack-up as I pan across him. He just about died laughing as soon as I finished taking this ridiculous video clip. And then we figured it out when we started walking again and found the answering call - the "grouse" in our picture! The big, bad, scary, grouse. Yup. :)

Deer me...

We went to bed that night a little deflated. Just our third night out and we were tired and a little grumpy - I was having my doubts. Luckily, Drew and I communicate well and by the time we actually went to sleep we had talked it out - the expectations, what we each needed to do for each other to make it the best experience, and how we were going to approach the rest of our trip. I love him - I really do! Never have I met a man better able (and willing!) to take the time to get me to talk about what I'm thinking and feeling.

The next morning we were all smiles (and somehow less sore - weird) as we headed out back onto the never ending trail. Knowing what were in for for the first few miles - all went smoothly. As I was leading the trail up and over a crest a young buck was doing the same on the other side. We met in the middle to our mutual surprise. I love deer in Yosemite - it's like they pose for pictures. We got some great ones, and I could hear Dad in my head as he would no doubt look them over. :) We stayed put until he could make his way off the trail, and as we moved on we realized quickly why he was hesitant to move. Oh, there's his girlfriend! And his kids! Hi, everybody! Okay, let's have a big ol' photo session! I just kept creeping closer, and they just kept ignoring me...check it out in the photos above.

After a while we met up with my sanity-saving signage from the day before (see yesterday's post!) and took a new path - STRAIGHT UP! But this time I was well prepared for the climb, thanks to Drew. We saw some new wildlife (Grouse maybe? Help us out here, Dad!), enjoyed some shaded forest walking, encountered another human (yes, it was that infrequent as to be noted specifically - and we loved it), laughed at the tiny lizards doing "push-ups" on the rocks (I don't know what they were doing - a mating dance, a get away from me dance?) and made our way for about five miles.

At one point we hit a "not on the map" climb that just kept going. Knowing myself, I called for a break before gumption was lost. We stopped for some CLIFF bars and water and then moved on - attitude restored. A couple of miles later Drew and I started looking for a campsite - not a group one in this case since there were no backpacker campsites on this part of the trail - but an individual one. I spotted an awesome one across the creek. We checked it out, approved, and set up camp. A while later after dinner I had a taste for a snack - from the bag that we soon found out was lost along the trail. Remember that "gumption stop" I just posted about? We're pretty sure that's the last known location of the snack bag. Oh, well. Good thing we still had our dinners in the bear canister...

Merced Lake

The never ending hike...

Aww, I just had a flashback to "The Never Ending Story" as I wrote that title. Don't you just love a good childhood memory? Had another one the other day when I encountered one of Life's faculty members flipping through the book "The Giver". Maybe it's on the summer reading list... :)

Okay, back to the trail and the story at hand. After the spending the night in Little Yosemite Valley (a night for which we had been told to "prepare for bears" according to the rangers on hand - we didn't see any) we headed out around 9am in the direction of Merced Lake - the farthest point out on our trek.

I was prepared for a relatively flat, easy day, and I had my expectations set accordingly. Problem? I had expectations. Shouldn't have had any in the first place; it's a recipe for disaster! The first few miles were awesome - we even stopped by a great cascade for a break (see pictures). Legs strong, dressed for the day, gumption still flowing - for a few more miles at least. We made our way through a narrowing canyon as granite shot up farther and farther on either side of us - the Merced River always leading the way.

We stuck our feet in the water a few times and I thought of my mom - she always has to stop and "dip her toes" for a while, no matter how frigid the water temperature. So I pulled a "mom" a couple of times - venturing out to my ankles until I couldn't take the cold anymore (this was snow melt, mind you!) and then ran squealing back to dry granite slab.

It was at the second "toe dip" stop that we were passed by a man who looked all too comfortable in the "wild" - heading in the same direction as us. Crazy hair and beard, backpack pretty beat up - he could have been out there for weeks. Drew and I exchanged a look - how many times had we been told that the most dangerous animal in the park could be a human!? This guy looked like he played the part. He passed us with a nod and a grunt but we would see him again later on that day, several times, as we played leap frog along the trail. For all I know he could be the nicest man in the world - but we never got to find out, and I'm okay with that.

We leap-frogged this guy (he passed us, we passed him, he passed us, etc.) all the way to Merced Lake on the trail that never seemed to end. Over hot granite slab, up a vertical climb that according to Drew was "not on my map - at least not like this!". Herein lies the problem with expectations - they're never spot on.

About two miles out from camp we came across signage with our distance on it. It was about at this point that I realized - I like checkpoints, progress, status reports. I like to know how I'm doing, people! I think this is where the expectation part comes in. Tell me there's a mountain to climb, and I'll climb it. So long as afterward there's something to tell me "Good job, you climbed a mountain and it was this high, this far, this big, and now you have this far left down the other side." Pretty sure this weird tick extends into other parts of my life, too.

After several (a few too many) false starts as we came round the bend to yet another view of the Merced RIVER, we finally found Merced LAKE at over 7000 feet elevation - home for the night.

Home, Sweet, Home! Bears not welcome...

I think we're alone now...

How about we take a step away from the churning river of death... Yeah? Okay, good.

Once we conquered Vernal Falls we churned our way up to the top of Nevada Falls losing most of the crowd on the way. What felt like forever was just a couple of miles (if that!) but it was all one big uphill switchback in hot, hot sun. The memory of that shower at Vernal was just that - a memory! Glad we picked June, though, as I'm seeing now in mid-July that the temps are topping in the 90's.

We spent some time at the top of Nevada Falls, where I realized I'd lost my sunglasses. Drew wandered around, and as I was watching him wander my eyes landed on a gentleman meandering close to the (unguarded) fast moving water. Something about him made me nervous, and though I really didn't want to see what I imagined in my head happening next, I couldn't take my eyes off him. He looked like he was scoping out the scene - you know, a JUMPER! I was so nervous, I almost wanted to yell something - but that could have been dangerous, too! Thankfully he moved away after a few minutes and Drew wandered back towards me.

On our way back through to meet the John Muir Trail headed for Little Yosemite Valley I struck up a conversation with a young girl and her mother. The girl was maybe six, and her mom smiled at me as she told her daughter that Drew and I were backpacking and that we had everything we needed on our backs. I giggled to myself as the little girl turned to me and said, "You have your tent?" I said that yes, we did. "You have your sleeping bag?" Yup. "You have your pajamas?" Uh-huh. This went on until we'd exhausted everything in my bag and Drew's. Cute! Future backpacker, perhaps!?

A mile later we landed in Little Yosemite Valley at the backpacker's campground - tired but happy. We headed to the river to fill up our water bottles and I managed to drop the cap to mine in the river. Perhaps because I was tired, I just looked at it for a second before realizing it was floating in the current AWAY from me. I shook the cobwebs off enough to look at Drew and say "My cap." That's it. My cap. He sprung into action, saved it from the Merced River without getting too much of himself soaked, and deemed it my turn to Steri Pen both waters. Fair enough...

We even had a little energy after a quick nap to scope things out. Found ourselves climbing hand over foot up a small, no-name dome with great views. We spent some time there all by ourselves and watched the pretty light come over the valley. Then we had to climb down the steep slope - I chose the "planned butt scoot" method as opposed to landing there inadvertently. :) All the sudden we realized we weren't all that "alone". A young doe had made her way up behind us enjoying rarely munched vegetation and we ended up face to face to everyone's surprise. She didn't seem to mind, though, which we discovered was pretty much status quo for all the deer in Yosemite. Move slowly in the opposite direction and we can all get along in the same space...